On the Bench - 1/16 Gecko Universal Carrier Mk.II - Part 2

 Work is continuing on the Gecko Models Universal Carrier Mk.II.  I have completed the construction of the bogeys, minus the spring end pins, which I will add once they are mounted and the vehicle is leveled.  Once in, they will lock any movement in the suspension.

I next moved on to the interior, which will be well viewable, and nicely detailed.  In the front there are a lot of rods and details, including really nicely detailed seat mounts.  Painting needs to be planned, as once the front plate is on, it would be difficult to get paint in there, and weather.

I did paint the visible radiator and hose prior to mounting and "masked" off.  It should be noted, that the full engine is available as a seperate kit from Gecko, but the engine cover plates in the rear are all molded shut, so you need to do a bit of cutting and scratch building if you wanted to show it off.

Back up front, the instrument panel is also well detailed, but unfortunately Gecko does not provide decals for the instruments or other detail for it.  So currently I am scouring the internet looking for images of the panel, and trying to source the dials to print and install.

I am painting with AK Interactive Real Colours, SCC15 Olive Drab.  I do like it, but where I live it is getting harder to source without having to order online.

On the Bench - 1/16 Gecko Universal Carrier Mk.II

I have started working on the Gecko Models 1/16 Universal Carrier Mk.II.  So far have found it to be a nice kit, well molded details, good instructions, and "big".  If you have ever built a 1/35 scale, you will know what I mean.  

The interior starts with the steering and control mounted to the floor, and assembly is pretty straight forward.  The fuel tanks are added, as well as some storage boxes and battery.  I added a little bit of copper wire for the battery connection just add that little bit of extra details, most of it will be hidden, but I know it is there.

I have know started on the running gear, and Gecko provides nicely plastic molded springs.  They do have a lot of sprue gates, so cutting them off takes a little care and time.

I do recommend a good thin file to clean up the sprue gates, the one from Border Models does a great job.  Sliding them over a rod will help with the clean up as they are a little fragile and makes holding the parts while sanding a lot easier.

Off the Bench - Patrol Air Cushion Vehicle

 

Well after some time, and frustration, the Gecko Models Patrol Air Cushion Vehicle is coming on the bench.  Overall it is a very nice kit, there are some finnicky bits, and I did lose one of the propeller blades, but was able to 3D print a set to replace them all. 

The model was painted with AK Real Colors and weathered with AK Pencils and Ammo by Mig shadders, with a little bit of enamel washes included.

On the Bench - Takom SpPz 2 Luchs A1/A2

 

This is a side build I have had going for some time, the Takom SpPz 2 Luchs.  The kit from Takom is not one of their greatest.  The sprues have lots of flash, there are some parts with weak detail, and the fit for a lot of parts is not great.

The kits does provide option for both the A1 and A2 versions, I chose the A2.

The kits does have some nice details, the suspension and running gear are well done, even though at times trick to assemble.  But if you take your time you can get the steerable wheels to work.

Unfortunately I would not recommend this kit, though I would be interested in how the Revell kit of this vehicle builds.

On the Bench - Patrol Air Cushion Vehicle - Part 2

 

Work on the Gecko Models Patrol Air Cushion Vehicle continues with paint applied.  I used AK Real colours, have to say my favorite paint.  The model was pre-shaded prior to painting with light grey, black, yellow and brown.

With two coat of Future, yes I still have some and use it, ready for decals.

On the Bench - Patrol Air Cushion Vehicle

Started back a little while ago, the Gecko US Navy Patrol Air Cushion Vehicle(PACV) or as some may say, a hovercraft.  The kit is well molded with lots of details, including a well done interior with options to model the front door in the open position.

Probably one of the trickiest parts of the build is the machine gunner stand on the interior, there are no real attach points for strength, and lining up the bars to fit into both the slots in the floor and roof are tricky.  I used Testors liquid cement to "tack" the bars in place, then dry fitted the roof to line up the bars.  Once lined up, I put a couple of drops of CA on the joints and left to dry.

I was also concerned with painting, so I pre-painted some of the areas that may be tricky for the airbrush to reach once I start final painting.

It is a good kit, and I would recommend it. 

Off the Bench - Land Wasser Schlepper

 Just completed, the Bronco Land Wasser Schlepper (Mid Production).  Overall this is a good kit, detailed interior, nice details and overall great fit.  The build was basically out of the box, with the addition of a few extra pieces.  

The model was painted using AK Real Colors(lacquer) and weather with a combination of the AK Weathering pencils and some enamel washes.

The woven bumper is from Thatchweave, which adds a great look to the vehicle.  

The boxes on the back are from Value Gear, and the tool box and tools are 3D printed.  As for the flag, it comes with the kit, is a cloth material, and is was formed using Mod-Podge.

Track and AK Pencils

 A while back I completed the 1/16 scale Tiger, which is a fantastic kit, but big.  I had started using the AK Interactive pencils for weathering, which in my opinion are a game changer. (I will have future articles covering their use).  I decided to experiment a bit, and applied both the Copper and Gun Metal Graphite to the surface of the tracks where it would be worn to metal, and buffed it with a cotton swap.  The result was impressive, as it provides a greater depth in the effect then just graphite. 

On the Bench - May 18

 A couple of kits I have been working on for the past couple of weeks.

An oldie, but a good, is the Bronco Land-Wasser-Schlepper(Mid Production).  Overall the kit went together very well, with an impressive interior (sorry did not get photos).  It is at the stage of weathering, and I included the Thatchweave Products bumper set.  This set it is easy to install and really adds to the completed model look.

And still in progress is the Gecko Model US Navy Patrol Air Cushion Vehicle(PACV).  The build has had some challenges, but overall a fun build.  There is a good interior, with the internal stand for the turret gunner a little finicky to install.  Just in the process now of adding window, which will be masked and the external details.

The Return

After many years of not having enough time, now I find time on my hand, and this will be the return of this blog, including Sprue News.  I have not been building much, but am back at the bench regularly now, and will have some new content to share with you.  I have picked up some new products, tools, and more, and will be sharing how I use them and how it might help you.

I have also added a couple of 3D Printers to my collection, and will be sharing how I incorporate these into my model building.  

Stay tuned.......

Priming and Painting with Ammo by Mig

With Ammo by Mig paint being out for sometime, I am still hearing people are having issues using it, or not liking it.  I have started using it for about six months, and am very impressed with it.  I find it goes on very fine and produces a great finish.

Having just built a MiniArt T-70M, with the build review found here, I thought lets show how I used Ammo by Mig Primer and paint.

Starting with Ammo by Mig Black primer using my Iwata Eclipse, lets apply the primer.  The key to applying Ammo by Mig primer is very thin coats.  I apply the primer directly from the bottle with the airbrush pressure set to about 20 psi.

 
The first coat applied should be very light, barely covering the model.  This light coat will dry to the touch very quick, which will allow for more coats in the same sitting.

The next coat, again very light will start to add more primer, again it will not cover the surface completely.

Again in the same sitting, after the second coat has dried, you can start to apply more primer to start fully covering the model.
















While acrylic paint and primer dries quickly, it does take some time to cure.  Before applying paint, I will give the primer on the model two days to cure.

To start the paint, I am using the Ammo by Mig Russian base, and I will apply the same way as the primer, very light coats.  With the Ammo by Mig paint, I will thin with about 40% Ammo by Mig Thinner.  I will also reduce the airbrush pressure to about 15 to 18 psi.

The first coat will be barely seen on the black primer.

Then, like how the primer was applied, I will build up the color with more very thin coats.  If I had preshaded the model, this is an excellent way to get color modulation.  But since the final color on this model will be white, I did not apply any color modulation.  But I did leave some areas with light coats to show the darkness of the black primer, while I applied more coats to the edges and tops areas to get a more green color.

Give the Ammo by Mig paint and primer a try, you might just like it.

Improving Masking Tape Seat Belts

I have come across a link that shows a great method for improving the look of masking tape seat belts.  The process looks like it could be used for multiple scales by adjusting the size of the loops of wire.

Seat Belts Made Simple - by Rato Marczak


If anyone has any other links they think should be added, please let me know.

Takom Leopard C2 Build

I have recently complete the Takom 1A5/C2 kit, and must say it is a rather nice kit.  The kit provides a option for both the the German version and Canadian version, with markings both, of this great tank.











The kit does build very well and the parts are well done.  I complimented the kit with a barrel, antenna set, and rear mud flaps from Leopard Workshop.  These too are nice additions, especially the mud flaps, as they are made from a rubber material, that is realistic looking.

I did shave the molded on tie downs off, and replace them with wire.

The kit was primed with Ammo by Mig primer and painted with the Tamiya Acrylic NATO colors(XF-67 NATO Green, XF-68 NATO Brown, XF-69 NATO Black).  When applying the camouflage(Brown and Black) I keep the air pressure low, and thin about 60% Tamiya thinner to paint.  Then the colors should be built up gradually.  I used AK Interactive NATO Camouflage Filter, followed by local washes of Ammo by Mig Brown for Green.   Weathering was done using Vallejo European Earth Wash and various Vallejo pigments.