On the Bench - Trumpeter 9P117M1 Elbrus Scud B - Pt.2

Now this was fun, I have now primed the frame and engine components using Vallejo Black Primer.  I mixed the primer with about 25% mix of Vallejo Thinner and a few drops of Flow Aid.  Trying to get into the nucks and crevices proved to be fun, but patience and time got it done.











The plan is to leave the frame black, but I will over spray with a Black Grey to give it some depth.  Also I plan on painting the engine with the new Vallejo Metal Steel, so I will be able to report back to you on how this works.

On the Bench - Trumpeter 9P117M1 Elbrus Scud B - Pt.1

It is great having time back at the bench, and I have a great looking kit to get started with, the Trumpeter Scud B.  The kit comes in a big box, and with lots of parts.  Overall the quality of the parts look great, with the exception of the vinyl rubber tires that I am not a big fan of.  I have bought the E.T. Models weighted wheels and the Voyager piping set.

So after an evening full of work and some afternoon work, I finally have the most of the frame together.

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The fit is good, and there is some decent detail.

Building of the suspension does take some work, and while alot of the parts on the sprues look alike, you really need to pay attention to part numbers.  Again the fit is good, and it looks(so far) that everything is lining up really well.

Next up is building of the LARGE engine, that does almost look like a kit in itself.

Dirty Tires

Here is a method I use for making tire look dirty, where the dust and dirt collect in the treads.  To start I mix a slurry of water and pigments, in this case using Mig Dried Mud.  The slurry should not be to thick, I like to have it runny as to get into all the crevices.

Next is to coat the wheel with the slurry, making sure to get it into the crevices, treads, and all areas you want to have the dirt showing.  I also apply the slurry into the wheel wheel and bottom of model.









Then you have to let it dry, I usually give it about an hour.

After that you can rub off the excess, I use a my thumb or finger, to be able to get the right pressure
and have better control taking off just what I want.  You can also use a stiff brush to change the effect and pattern in some areas, like the hub.

Removing Small Parts

Sometimes removing small, fine, and/or delicate parts from a sprue can be disastrous.  Using clipper, snips or a hobby knife can damage the part, or even break it.  A good solution to this is to get and use a good razor saw.  Carefully cutting the part of the sprue using a razor saw can help save the part and get it off the sprue without damage.

The razor saws I use are from RB Models.  The set comes with a photo-etched clip to hold the saw that will fit into almost any hobby knife handle.  The blades are thin and sharp.  I prefer to use the fine blades, as you can control the cut better, especially with delicate parts.

New Source for Plastic Model News

There is a new source to get your plastic model news and more.

The Sprue News

Molding Track

Ever had the issue of getting track to look weighted down, especially across the top.  Here is a little tip that might help.  When using individual links, like Dragon's Magic Track I apply a little force while the glue dries.  With Magic Track, after assembling two sections per side, then applying Testor Liquid Cement I wait about 20 minutes then put the track on the tank.  Once I am happy with the fit, I stuff a little tissue in the top to press down on the tracks to ensure the return track looks weighted down on the return rollers.

Here is an example on the T-34 that is currently on my bench.

I will get the track overnight for the glue to set hard, then remove and paint.  When the track goes back on it will look like the weight of the return track is resting on the wheels, like the real thing.  Sometimes the "spring action will keep it up after, but a little CA will solve that.

Happy Tanking.

Off the Bench: Canadian Leopard C1

The latest to leave my bench is a Canadian Leopard C1.  This model was build from the MBK kit, which is just a remold of the old Italeri Leopard 1A4.  Added to the kit was the TrackJam Models Leopard C1 conversion set, which contains the required turret and a few other bits to really make it Canadian.  I also used the Perfect Scale barrel, the Real Model photo-etched update and tracks from Hong Kong Creations Workshop.

While the resin turret took a little work, the rest of the model came together very well.

To match the Canadian (NATO) green I used Vallejo Air Dark Camo Green, while weathering was done using a combination of Mig pigments and True Earth effects.

Give a conversion a try sometime, it is fun.