Dirty Tires

Here is a method I use for making tire look dirty, where the dust and dirt collect in the treads.  To start I mix a slurry of water and pigments, in this case using Mig Dried Mud.  The slurry should not be to thick, I like to have it runny as to get into all the crevices.

Next is to coat the wheel with the slurry, making sure to get it into the crevices, treads, and all areas you want to have the dirt showing.  I also apply the slurry into the wheel wheel and bottom of model.









Then you have to let it dry, I usually give it about an hour.

After that you can rub off the excess, I use a my thumb or finger, to be able to get the right pressure
and have better control taking off just what I want.  You can also use a stiff brush to change the effect and pattern in some areas, like the hub.

Removing Small Parts

Sometimes removing small, fine, and/or delicate parts from a sprue can be disastrous.  Using clipper, snips or a hobby knife can damage the part, or even break it.  A good solution to this is to get and use a good razor saw.  Carefully cutting the part of the sprue using a razor saw can help save the part and get it off the sprue without damage.

The razor saws I use are from RB Models.  The set comes with a photo-etched clip to hold the saw that will fit into almost any hobby knife handle.  The blades are thin and sharp.  I prefer to use the fine blades, as you can control the cut better, especially with delicate parts.

New Source for Plastic Model News

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The Sprue News

Molding Track

Ever had the issue of getting track to look weighted down, especially across the top.  Here is a little tip that might help.  When using individual links, like Dragon's Magic Track I apply a little force while the glue dries.  With Magic Track, after assembling two sections per side, then applying Testor Liquid Cement I wait about 20 minutes then put the track on the tank.  Once I am happy with the fit, I stuff a little tissue in the top to press down on the tracks to ensure the return track looks weighted down on the return rollers.

Here is an example on the T-34 that is currently on my bench.

I will get the track overnight for the glue to set hard, then remove and paint.  When the track goes back on it will look like the weight of the return track is resting on the wheels, like the real thing.  Sometimes the "spring action will keep it up after, but a little CA will solve that.

Happy Tanking.

Off the Bench: Canadian Leopard C1

The latest to leave my bench is a Canadian Leopard C1.  This model was build from the MBK kit, which is just a remold of the old Italeri Leopard 1A4.  Added to the kit was the TrackJam Models Leopard C1 conversion set, which contains the required turret and a few other bits to really make it Canadian.  I also used the Perfect Scale barrel, the Real Model photo-etched update and tracks from Hong Kong Creations Workshop.

While the resin turret took a little work, the rest of the model came together very well.

To match the Canadian (NATO) green I used Vallejo Air Dark Camo Green, while weathering was done using a combination of Mig pigments and True Earth effects.

Give a conversion a try sometime, it is fun.

Finding help at the Art Store

Sometimes a trip the to the local Art Supply store can be helpful for your modelling endeavours.  As modelling involves alot of painting sometimes, there are some interesting things, and products, that can be found at the art store.

A few things I have noticed in visiting the Art store is that there is a wider selection of brushes to select from, and in some case, they may be cheaper than the hobby store.  Not only brushes, but other tools can be found there too, for example I use a paint knife to apply putty, great little tool.

The key to a great finish is getting the paint to lay smooth when applied.  Two products that I have found at the local art supply are from Liquitex, Flow Aid and Slo-Dri.  Flow Aid is a product that helps in allowing acrylic paint to flow better and penetrate uneven surfaces, while Slo-Dri is just like is says, it slows down the drying time of acrylic paint.

For Flow Aid, I mix a small bottle with about a cap full mixed with water.  I use this mixture as a thinner when working with acrylic paints.  I mostly use Vallejo paints, and find it works great.  I also find it handy to use when applying washes, as Flow Aid will help break the surface tension of water.

Slo-Dri does just what it says, I always mix with Flow Aid as well.  We know that acrylics dry fast and sometimes we wish we could have a little more working time, and Slo-Dri does that.  It is also useful when there is a lot of painting to be done, ie road wheels for a tank.  I will add a little of the Slo-Dri mixture to the paint on the pallette giving me plenty of time to paint all those wheels.






Another item you can find at the art store is paint.  Some hobby weathering products can be a little expensive, one product I have found is Winsor & Newton Water Based Oil paints.  Yes, I said water-based oil paint.  This paint is great for doing washes and filters, and being water based makes it easy to clean and relatively fast to dry.  I will use my Flow Aid mixture to thin this, and a tube will last forever.

Once you are done all the painting, it is time to clean up.  Overtime, old paint can build up in a brush regardless how well you clean it.  Well another product from Winsor & Newton is Brush Restorer.  This stuff will eat away at all the old paint in a brush, and if you are not careful the finishing of the brush too.  Use a small jar and only pour in a depth just higher than the bristles, soak the brush for about 15 minutes, then work the bristles gently between your fingers.  Once you are satisfied, rinse with water, and the brush will be like brand new.









So get out of the hobby store sometimes, and head to the art store, you will never know what you will find.

Decals the True Earth Way

I recently saw a post, by True Earth, makers of water based weathering agents, about using one of there products for applying decals.  The product is called Crystal Lock, it is more of an acrylic gloss coat, but I am not sure what it actually is, but I do like it, and use it.  It is great for "locking" down pigments and other effects on the model.

So, True Earth showed how to used Crystal Lock to apply decals, so I though, why not give this a try for the  console decals for my current project for Armorama, the Dragon Sexton II.  To start I gathered the items I needed, Archer Fine Transfers "U.S. Gauges and Interior Stencils", Medium Wet Paper, and the rest of my decal applying tools.

So with the dry transfer applied to the Medium Wet Paper, I treat it just like a regular decal, and soak in water.  While the decal is soaking, I apply a little dab of the Crystal Lock to the area I will be applying the decal.

When the decal is ready to apply, I just slide it off into the little puddle of Crystal Lock.  Positioning needs to be done quickly as the Crystal Lock starts to dry and become sticky.  Once I was satisfied with the position, I apply another dab of Crystal Lock to "lock" decal in place.

Voila! A different method of applying decals.  To finish this, once dry I will apply a matt clear coat, then place a dab of "Future" to each dial to represent the glass on the dial.

This same method will work, regardless of the decal location, and is an alternate method to decal setting fluids.  I am not sure how it would work on irregular surfaces, but for flat surfaces, it seems to work great.