Priming and Painting with Ammo by Mig

With Ammo by Mig paint being out for sometime, I am still hearing people are having issues using it, or not liking it.  I have started using it for about six months, and am very impressed with it.  I find it goes on very fine and produces a great finish.

Having just built a MiniArt T-70M, with the build review found here, I thought lets show how I used Ammo by Mig Primer and paint.

Starting with Ammo by Mig Black primer using my Iwata Eclipse, lets apply the primer.  The key to applying Ammo by Mig primer is very thin coats.  I apply the primer directly from the bottle with the airbrush pressure set to about 20 psi.

 
The first coat applied should be very light, barely covering the model.  This light coat will dry to the touch very quick, which will allow for more coats in the same sitting.

The next coat, again very light will start to add more primer, again it will not cover the surface completely.

Again in the same sitting, after the second coat has dried, you can start to apply more primer to start fully covering the model.
















While acrylic paint and primer dries quickly, it does take some time to cure.  Before applying paint, I will give the primer on the model two days to cure.

To start the paint, I am using the Ammo by Mig Russian base, and I will apply the same way as the primer, very light coats.  With the Ammo by Mig paint, I will thin with about 40% Ammo by Mig Thinner.  I will also reduce the airbrush pressure to about 15 to 18 psi.

The first coat will be barely seen on the black primer.

Then, like how the primer was applied, I will build up the color with more very thin coats.  If I had preshaded the model, this is an excellent way to get color modulation.  But since the final color on this model will be white, I did not apply any color modulation.  But I did leave some areas with light coats to show the darkness of the black primer, while I applied more coats to the edges and tops areas to get a more green color.

Give the Ammo by Mig paint and primer a try, you might just like it.

Improving Masking Tape Seat Belts

I have come across a link that shows a great method for improving the look of masking tape seat belts.  The process looks like it could be used for multiple scales by adjusting the size of the loops of wire.

Seat Belts Made Simple - by Rato Marczak


If anyone has any other links they think should be added, please let me know.

Takom Leopard C2 Build

I have recently complete the Takom 1A5/C2 kit, and must say it is a rather nice kit.  The kit provides a option for both the the German version and Canadian version, with markings both, of this great tank.











The kit does build very well and the parts are well done.  I complimented the kit with a barrel, antenna set, and rear mud flaps from Leopard Workshop.  These too are nice additions, especially the mud flaps, as they are made from a rubber material, that is realistic looking.

I did shave the molded on tie downs off, and replace them with wire.

The kit was primed with Ammo by Mig primer and painted with the Tamiya Acrylic NATO colors(XF-67 NATO Green, XF-68 NATO Brown, XF-69 NATO Black).  When applying the camouflage(Brown and Black) I keep the air pressure low, and thin about 60% Tamiya thinner to paint.  Then the colors should be built up gradually.  I used AK Interactive NATO Camouflage Filter, followed by local washes of Ammo by Mig Brown for Green.   Weathering was done using Vallejo European Earth Wash and various Vallejo pigments.


 

Winter 2016 - On the bench

Well we are into the heart of winter, at least here in Canada, holidays long gone, and looking forward to spring.  I have had the time to work on a few things at the bench, and as always, enjoy the time I get at the bench.

One kit I have been really looking forward to is the Formation Ram II OP Conversion.  This kit uses the Tamiya Early Sherman for the lower hull, and provides the resin parts for the upper hull, turret, and bits.  I am pleasantly surprised in the level of fit for this resin kit, it goes together very well.  Unfortunately the kit does not include track, and I have the Modelkasten T54E1 track, but it looks like a real bear to put together, so I am considering the Bronco track, which is a "little" easier to assemble.

Another kit on the go is the Takom Leopard 1A5/C2.  This is a very nice kit, well detailed and goes together very well, it also includes the Orochi workable track.  To achieve the NATO scheme, I rely on the Tamiya NATO colors(XF-67, XF-69, XF-69), in my opinion, and quite a few I have read, they are the best choice for NATO colors, with the NATO Green very close to the CARC Green used by Canada.

I did manage to finish the Elberus SCUD, well almost, still needs a couple of small parts added, but it was on the desk so long, I needed a break and to work on some other bits.

So I hope all are enjoying your winter, and hopefully the cold weather is giving more time at the bench.  If you have any images of what you are working on, email them to me, and I will share them with the rest of the crowd.  (Be sure to include a little description of what you are doing with the build).

On the Bench - Trumpeter 9P117M1 Elbrus Scud B - Pt.6

Well starting to think this long build is getting close to the end, a couple of sprues are empty and gone, while the remaining sprues only have a few parts left on them.

Work has begun on the front cabs, and they are well detailed.  There was no issues with the fit, and the windows were masked inside and out.  The cab interiors were painted Vallejo Air Pale Green interior and details picked out with Vallejo Model colors.

On assembling the cabs after interior paint, I did have a fit issue with on cab on the front, but nothing a little Tamiya putty won't fix.

The rest of the kit is together and looking like a monster.  I have started on the rocket and cradle, and again fit is no issue.  When building the bottom part of the cradle, there are pins that need to match up to the bottom of the rocket, so I left the rocket mount un-attached to the cradle and while gluing the pins in, I mounted it to the rocket bottom to keep the pins lined up.

Also on the bottom cradle the lower PE part in the image was a little long, so I trimmed the corners to get it to fit.

Up next, finalize the front cabs, and try to get it all together.

On the Bench - Trumpeter 9P117M1 Elbrus Scud B - Pt.5

Just a quick update, as working on the interior sections, and with priming and painting, taking a little longer.  The decals supplied by the kit do look nice, but a little difficult to line up.  While not a lot of wiring detail, this would be an area that would look real nice if you had the time and wanted to super detail it.  As I am closing the doors, I went with what is in the kit.

The same goes for the driver section, a lot of room for detail.

On the Bench - Trumpeter 9P117M1 Elbrus Scud B - Pt.4

Well work on the SCUD B continues, and I think I can see the bottom of the box.  As mentioned before, to prevent a nightmare of a masking job, I am painting the sub-assemblies as they come.

The front bumper is now attached with the headlights in, and I must say the PE headlight guards look great.

The rear stowage and compartments have been painted and added.  I am using Ammo by Mig Russian Base, and am becoming alot more comfortable with Ammo paint, to the point that I think I really like it.

The tail end sub-assembly is also together and painted, just waiting for installation.















Trumpeter has been nice enough to include decals for a lot of the control, including rear under fender control stations.

Construction has moved to the center component section, and the kit is still going together very well.  I must say, other then some ejector marks to fill, this kit from Trumpeter is great.  I might have to tackle the Smerch next, well actually stay tuned, picked up the Sherman kit I needed and I will be starting on a Ram II conversion real soon.